Mambilla Plateau: Adventure not for the faint-hearted

Posted on: March 22, 2025, by :

Taraba State prides itself as ‘Nature’s Gift to the Nation’. A casual visitor to the state is wont to disregard this statement. Quite true there are some few eye catching rock formations in and around the countryside. It is equally true that towns such as Wukari, the ancestral home of the Jukun people, is steeped in culture and tradition that dates back to hundreds of years. But one could not from these conclude that the state is nature’s gift to the nation. Just a casual trip around the state capital, Jalingo leaves one with the impression that it’s just a typical North eastern state with all the common features one sees in North Central and North East. However, for one to fully appreciate the state, one needs go further towards Taraba Central senatorial zone to two local governments, Gashaka and Sardauna, where the Taraba as a gift to the nation is authenticated. Taraba is one of the most endowed states in the country in the areas of tourism.
It took about five hours to travel from Jalingo, the state capital, to Serti, Gashaka council area, the town before the foot of Mabilla Hill. It is also important to know that Serti is the home of the largest national park in West Africa, the Gashaka Gumti National Park. It is from this point that the real journey to the Mambilla Plateau starts.
Driving towards the foot of the Mambilla Plateau, it was as if one was heading to the bowel of the hill that has formed a semi-circle round the vicinity. Just at the point that marked the beginning of the ascent, one could see the road heading upwards. Suddenly the hitherto hot humid air common to that part of the country suddenly gave way for a cool weather. It was not something that was gradual, it was abrupt. One could actually trace the point where the cool weather started.
Climbing the hill is not for the faint hearted because of the twist and turns, as the road meandered upwards. But a trip to Mambilla without the twist and turn of the road experience would not be complete. It is just like being suspended in the sky, held only by a tread tied to one’s ankle, looking down on a valley.
The first point of call is Hawa Biu Da Sisi, meaning two and half shilling hill. The tour guides explained that in the olden days before the road was carved out of the rock, there were load carriers who normally carry loads from the bottom of the plateau to the top. A trip normally took two weeks from the foot to the top of the hill. The cost per trip was initially two shilling, but having negotiated that amount, on getting to the steep sharp corner, the load carriers would demand an extra half a shilling, hence the name.
The first corner is Kwanan Gomna, said to be the point where the former Governor of Northern Nigeria, Sir Kassim Ibrahim reached before deciding to go back.


Other key points are Tungar Gorah, Kwanan Drum, Tungar Ahmedu. Tungar Ahmadu is close to the top of the hill. This point was said to be the point where the former Premier of the North, Sir Ahmadu Bello decided to reach before deciding to go back. According to the indigenes of Gembu, it was in recognition of the effort of Sir Ahmadu Bello that the whole of the local government area was named Sardauna council area, in honour of the former premier who was also the Sardauna of Sokoto.
One of the signs that one was getting to the top of the mountain range is the cooler nature of the weather and then the presence of well-fed cattle which lazily shambled along the treacherous road unmindful of coming vehicles. A vehicle had to honk before the cattle would shamble off the road. Here in Mambilla, the cattle have the right of way. Gradually the climbing ended and what one could see was a stretch of prowling ranches that sat on undulating ranges of hills. However, before entering the town proper, one stopped at a spring. The tour guides explained that every visitor coming to the town is expected to drink form the water before proceeding. The water was cold and refreshing, just what is expected of a spring water.
While on the upward ascent to Gembu the town on top of the hill, some years ago, there was a spring water company. It was said to have been built by a former information minister in the government of President Obasanjo. He saw the natural spring and decided to build the water factory to bottle the water. According to the guides, immediately the water plant started functioning, the spring water dried up. As such the factory had to close. Once the factory closed down, the spring water started flowing again. They could not give an explanation for the phenomenon.
The lush land on top of the Gembu hills are carved out into personal ranches by top former military officers and political leaders. They have exotic cattle on the ranches.
The first major town enroute to the council headquarters, Gembu is Nguroje. From Nguroje to Gembu is about 30 minutes’ drive on top of the hill. Along the road, one could watch with awe the large expanse of lush greenery. For those who know Obudu Cattle Ranch, the top of Mambilla Plateau could produce 20 Obudu Cattle ranches, from what one could see, and yet, the land simply melted into the sky with no end in sight. Depending on the time of the day one gets to the top of Mambilla, it’s like one could actually stretch out and touch the cloud.
Then, the wonder of nature, right on top of the hill is the lively town of Gembu, The population of Gembu could be put within the range of 50,000 to 70,000.
Tea farming is the major occupation of the people. And a familiar sight all over the Mambilla top is that of women carrying their farming baskets on their back. On enquiries from one of them, she said it was because of the nature of the terrain, that carrying it on the back allows the hand to be free for balancing purposes.
Speaking of the Mambilla Plateau, a tourist described it as the best place on earth, saying he came to appreciate the beauty of the place which he had heard so much about. “This is the most beautiful natural scene I have seen in my life. It is nature at its best. No word can be used to describe the place.”
Outside the eco-tourism potential of Mambilla Plateau, the area is rich in culture as various cultural organisations in their unique cultural attires enthusiastically rolled out the drum in celebration and entertainment of huge numbers of people that have made it to the top of the plateau to mark the World Tourism day.
The biggest asset of the Mambilla Plateau as a potential tourism destination in Nigeria is its potential to combine adventure cum wildlife tourism at the Gashaka Gumti park just at the foot of the plateau, with relaxation on top of the plateau.
However, all these are still in a raw state; the place cries fors investors. There are no decent accommodation facilities on top of the plateau, making it difficult for one to fully settle down for relaxation.
The best houses in the area are those owned by past political leaders who have built houses that would serve as their place of abode when in the area to inspect their ranches.
Unfortunately the inhabitants of the town are lamenting that the craze for acquisition of the choice land of ranches have not translated into bringing development to them and improving their economic well being. The tea companies are the only factories in the area.
After the visit, coming down the plateau was another experience. Though one knew what to expect, it did not make the fear less. Coming down the hill after the more than an hour trip, suddenly one felt the two ears being partially deafened, like the effects of an airplane’s cabin pressure on one’s ear. Those familiar with the area said it was the result of coming from such a high height.
The trip to Mambilla Plateau is an unforgettable experience. However, while waiting for investors to help in developing the area, the government of Taraba State should do its own part by taking care of the infrastructural facilities like the long stretch of road to the Plateau. This would help in sending the right signals to potential investors. For those desirous of literally floating on clouds, the place to be is the Mambilla Plateau. There is no better place to experience this.

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